Your new furry family member is home, and probably feeling a bit confused and frightened. A calm, quiet and loving atmosphere is what’s needed right now. Make a special place for your new friend in a quiet part of your home, away from the activity. Place a bed or blankets, some water, a toy or two, a cookie or two, and items belonging to your dog if you have them. A large, open door, crate can feel quite safe too. Your dog may choose to be with you, but this retreat will be comforting if your pet is feeling insecure. Pop in often with a reassuring pat and some gentle words.
Coming Home:
Shop till you drop! Buy your new friend all the essentials to feel welcome. You’ll need:
*Good quality pet food. Read the labels, and look for the first ingredients to be meat - not meat meal or meat by-products. You may want dry as well as canned.
*Treats and chew toys. Be careful of chews, like bones and rawhide, that pose choking hazards. Always supervise giving these treats. Kong bones are great, and fill the hole with a treat, cheese or peanut butter, and your pup will thank you for it!
*Toys - be careful of parts, such as eyes and noses, and squeakers inside that can be chewed and swallowed.
*Water and food dishes.
*A soft bed big enough to stretch out on.
*A proper fitting collar. You should be able to easily fit 4 fingers under the collar. There’s no need for chain choke collars or prong collars. If your dog has issues that you feel warrant one of these, seek professional training advice instead.
*An I.D. tag on the collar with the dog’s name, your home phone and cell phone numbers. The word REWARD on the tag helps to encourage your dog’s return.
*A microchip implanted under the skin is always a great way to assure your dog is returned to you. Collars come off, along with the I.D. tag; but microchips are forever.
*An Easy Walk Harness is wonderful on walks, and especially great for dogs that pull on leashes. Proper and snug fit is important.
*A leash that’s comfortable to hold, and just long enough to allow your dog some wiggle room to sniff and explore.
*Paper towels and poopie bags. You’ll want to buy stock in these companies!
*An enzyme solution that neutralizes urine, feces, odor and bio-matter. These are fantastic, and will keep your carpet happy - you too.
*Unscented puppy or dog shampoo keeps your new pal clean and fresh as a daisy.
Before your new friend arrives, you’ll need to “dog proof” your home for safety. Walk your yard fencing looking for gaps and holes your friend can escape through, and permanently repair them. Remove anything that can pose a hazard to your pet. These include poisonous products, especially antifreeze, and slug bait, and any household products that can be ingested. Candy dishes too - chocolate Hershey Kisses are a big no-no for dogs. How unfair! Remove items that can pose choking or poison hazards from floors and low shelving that the dog can reach.
Dogs and dogs:
If you already have a dog at home, until you know how all pets will interact, pick up anything that could potentially cause a squabble.These items can be toys, food, chews, a favorite bed, even a favorite leash. Give these back at your discretion, and under supervision. Introduce dogs on neutral ground outside of the home. Recruit a dog saavy friend to help you, and give your dog to the friend. You handle the new arrival. Take a deep breath, get into a calm assertive state of mind, because your dog will sense any fear you show and will take it as a sign of danger.
Don’t allow the dogs to get face to face or touch, but rather all 4 of you walk down the street together - folks inside dogs outside. Let them eyeball each other as you walk. They’ll be distracted by the smells and sights along the way, and less focused on each other. Monitor body language for signs of aggression - showing teeth, growling, rigid and tense posturing, trying to get over to the other dog - too focused.
If all seems friendly and nice, then slacken the leashes and allow the dogs to sniff and greet each other. Tight leashes convey fear and can cause a fight. Be calm, keep the leashes untangled, and be ready to pull them apart if a fight starts up. Do not allow one dog to mount another or try to place a leg or paw on the other’s back. This is showing dominance, and can lead to a fight. Once they have met and seem to get along, then you can proceed into the house together. Keep the leashes on for a while, in the yard too. Keep it under control.
Baby gates are great for keeping dogs apart, yet letting them sniff and get acquainted slowly. Slowly, and baby steps, are the keys to successful meet and greets. Never leave your pets alone unsupervised until you are completely sure that they are all pals and there is no danger of a fight breaking out.
If the unmentional happens, and a fight breaks out, the best way to break it up is first by calling for help, then start by kicking the dogs apart at the neck and face - don’t ever put hands too near or on the dogs. You can use a hose on full blast, or shove a trash can lid between their faces, or any object handy. Once apart, use your body, and the object, to direct the aggressor away. The dog will be excited, and may still bite you if handled.
Kids and dogs:
Small children need to understand the difference between stuffed animals and live ones. Don’t leave small children and dogs together unsupervised until you know your dog is ok around little kids. Teach your kids how to interact with dogs. Instruct the child to put a hand out and allow the dog to come to the child. Don’t look the dog directly in the eye, but off to the side. Speak softly and quietly, no fast movements, and if petting - pet the chest below the head and never come from above. Smile with a closed mouth, as showing teeth means something completely different in doggie land.
Teach them not to go near the food bowl when doggie is eating. Teach them not to take a toy out of doggie’s mouth, not to pinch, pull ears and tails, and not to tease dogs or throw things at him or her. Help them to understand that sudden fast movements, jumping, running and squealing can startle and frighten a dog, and cause a dog to bite. Also waking a dog suddenly from a nap, or rushing at dog to hug or kiss is a no-no. Many dogs will interpret a hug as a dominance, so chest petting is the way to go. Some dog’s couldn’t care less, but others will bite a child if frightened or pushed too far. Until you know for sure, and until your dog knows your children are not a threat, safety always comes first.
Cats and dogs:
The cartoons we grew up with were wrong. Cats and dogs can become best buds. When introducing them, always keep your dog on a leash and allow the cat freedom to approach or run. Always have an escape route for kitty. If your dog is fixated on kitty and refuses to be distracted, that’s bad - a strong prey drive, and kitty is in danger. If your dog is appearing curious, and will break focus on kitty with treats or other activity - that’s good. They’ll likely become pals.
Until you’re comfortable with them in the same room, don’t let them interact freely and unsupervised. Have a squirt bottle handy just in case doggie gets too enthusiastic, and correct unwanted behavior with the command, “Leave it!” (explained in detail later).
There is no such thing as a perfect dog! Your new friend won’t understand what’s expected until you teach him or her. Everyone in the family should use the same word for the behavior, prefaced by “Good” or “Bad.” (Example “Bad chew!” or “Good chew!”) Simply shouting “No!” or “Bad!“ won’t convey what doggy has done to displease you. You might as well be howling at the moon!
Consistancy and word repetition is the key to training, followed by positive reinforcement through praise and treats. Use a low firm, serious voice for the correction, and a happy, higher pitched voice for the praise. Hitting, hollering and punishing will only create more problems, and will get you absolutely nowhere, fast.
Basic Obedience Training makes for happy pets and happy families. A local class, or even applying lessons from a good book, is time well spent that will last a lifetime. Oh, and walking around morning until night with little yummy treats in your pocket will definitely drive your daily trainings home!
POTTY TRAINING:
Take your dog out to go potty often, and to the same location each time. Say, “Good potty!” and give a treat. If doggie has an accident in the house, no big deal…just say, “Bad potty!” and take doggy out to the good potty place and reinforce it with “Good potty!” Taking some urine on a paper towel, or feces outside to the potty area will also help drive your message home.
It’s always best to catch doggie in the act. Take the dog immediately outside and praise.
Dogs don’t like to mess where they sleep. Don’t give your new dog the run of the house, but keep your new friend in a confined area when you are not together. Using baby gates to block off the kitchen, or a den without carpet is great. Set up the bed, toys and water, and make it a positive happy place - not like punishment. Don’t make a fuss before you walk away or when returning - that just creates anxiety. Keep it matter of fact, and only give praise and greetings once the dog is calm. Let the dog out to go potty immediately after returning.
CRATES:
A large roomy crate can also serve this purpose. BUT…a crate is a training aid, and not a substitute for training. The crate should be roomy and allow the dog to lie down and stretch out comfortably. There should be blankets or a pad, and room for a small water bowl and some safe toys.
Make the crate a happy place. Never use it for punishment. Start teaching doggie to go inside by tossing a few treats to the back while saying, “Good crate!” Keep the door open, allowing for a quick exit. Once doggy is comfortable being inside, then close the door for a minute or so before opening it saying “Good crate!” Prolong the door closed times in baby steps.
The next step is to close doggie inside, say nothing, then leave the room for a minute or so. Upon returning and opening it, say “Good crate!” Still, don’t make a big fuss, just give the praise words and go out for potty. Prolong the periods you leave the room in baby steps as well.
When you are getting ready to leave, place some favorite “special” chew toys, like a Kong Bone with frozen peanut butter inside of it, into the crate. Having a special treat makes your departure so much better!
Never make a fuss before leaving the house, “I’ll be home soon my precious. I’ll miss you sooooo much pookey face!” Or when returning, same thing. Just go and return. Sad partings and grand reunions cause separation anxiety. Put on your coat and shoes, and play with your keys at times when you are not leaving. Dogs are really good at reading signs, and this will also help alleviate separation anxiety.
GO TO YOUR PLACE!
You can add to crate training or going to a special room by teaching “Go to your place!” When a visitor’s coming who’s afraid of dogs, or a workman arrives, you can stay in control by commanding your dog to go into the room/crate with “Go to your place!” Say this in a firm but non-scolding voice, then use a treat to get your dog to follow you to the room/crate. Once inside, praise “Good go to your place!” and give a treat. You can also secretly leave a surprise treat in the room/crate so when the dog arrives, there will be a magical treat waiting. Your dog will learn that hearing this command often means there’s a treat waiting at the place.
CHEWING:
Dogs chew, especially puppies who are teething. The trick is to teach them what’s ok to chew…and that dad’s expensive golf shoes are a huge no-no!
This is done much the same as potty training, by saying, “Bad Chew!” Then, the key is to immediately substitute what’s ok to chew, such as a Kong Bone or toy, and finish by praising with, “Good chew!” and a pat or two. Rawhide bones, real bones, and similar chews pose choking hazards, so if giving these, never leave doggie unsupervised. Knowing the doggie Heimlick Maneuver is a good thing too.
For dangerous chewing, such as electrical chords, or really annoying chewing such as the corner of dad’s favorite TV chair, Bitter Apple works miracles. It’s a clear spray carried at your favorite pet store, and it tastes just awful. I know, I tried it once! Spray some over favorite no-no areas to keep doggie far away from there. A little Tabasco Sauce works well too.
WALKING WELL ON LEAD:
It’s no fun to walk doggie around the block when you’re being dragged along behind a panting locomotive!
The best solution is an Easy Walk Harness. Choke collars and chains will teach doggie nothing. Make sure that the Easy Walk Harness is properly fitted, and is snug but not tight. A collar must also fit securely so that your dog can not back out of it.
Begin with doggie on your left side, and held closely at about 15 inches. If you can get doggie to sit by pushing down on the hind quarters and saying “Sit!” all the better. Start off on your left foot and give the command, “Heel!” while gently giving one inward tug on the leash bringing doggie back in to you. If doggie tries to charge ahead pull back on the leash with a firm jerk and another “Heel!” correction. If doggie is determined to charge ahead, simply break his/her train of thought by turning and walking in the opposite direction. This will throw doggie off, and as you turn repeat “Heel!” and jerk the leash to keep doggie at your side.
Just keep repeating this turning and walking in the opposite direction until doggie gets tired of it all and starts to understand that pulling ahead only means going back to square one. When doggie is finally walking nicely, don’t forget the praise and reward with “Good Heel!” and a treat.
If your pup or dog has never been on a leash before, they often sit or lie down, and refuse to budge. Never drag your dog, but rather coax your dog to come using treats. Once they are up and moving forward, keep the momentum going, and continue with the above method and praise.
SIT:
Sit and liver training treats go together like Peanut Butter and Jelly. While holding a treat, move it over your dog’s nose and back over the head, and give the command to “Sit!” When doggie finally does it, follow through with, “Good Sit!” and a treat. Dogs learn this one really fast.
This is a true joy when you have visitors coming into your house. Place your dog in the Sit/Stay away from the front door, and what a pleasure to answer the door without dogs barking, spinning, and jumping up on everyone. Give yourself a pat on the back!
DOWN:
From a sitting position, hold a treat on the floor in front of the dog and slide it towards you and away from the dog. Give the command, “Down!” Repeat movement with the treat until your dog lies down. When doggie does it, follow through with, “Good Down!” and give that good doggie lots of praise, and of course - that yummy treat!
STAY:
Teaching you dog to Stay is fun and rewarding. Teach this in a safe location, as you will be letting go of the leash.
Place your dog in a Sit while standing in front of your dog. Give the command, “Stay!” while simultaneously placing your right hand, palm facing your dog, just a few inches from the muzzle. Wait a few seconds. Give praise and a treat. Increase this waiting period gradually. As the dog gets the idea, gently drop the leash, and walk slowly in a clockwise direction around your dog, and end up back facing him or her once again. If at any time the dog breaks Stay, grab the leash, return your dog to the Sit, and begin again.
When you are able to complete the circle around your dog and return facing your dog while still in Sit, now it’s time to praise such a good doggie with “Good Stay!” and several yummy liver treats and pats.
Stay is also vital when traveling in the car. Before opening your car door, command the dog to “Stay!” Also, never walk away and leave your car window open enough for your dog to jump out, and never leave your dog in the car on a hot day!
Sit/Stay and Down/Stay: Combine them and mix it up for your pooch - they love a good challenge!
JUMPING UP ON FOLKS:
This is a no-no that needs to be nipped in the bud. When your dog jumps up on you put your knee up to block, or just simply turn your back to your dog. The command word for this correction is “Off!”…not to be confused with “Down!” This is a great time to follow through with “Good Off!,” then throw in “Sit!” and of course, that liver treat. Instruct visitors to do the same, Off/Sit, when doggie jumps up on them.
COME:
Coming when called is vital to any dog’s safety. Stuff happens. Collars break, gates are accidentally left open, dogs dash out the door. Training your dog to come on command is wonderful. Until your dog is trained to listen, never let him or her off leash when not safe within a fence. When your dog is heading your way, say, “Come!” Give a treat and praise when he arrives. After he gets used to the concept, try doing it when not already moving in your direction.
For this training you’ll need a long Flexi Leash or a 15’ length of rope. Put your dog in the Sit/Stay and slowly back away facing the dog while holding onto the leash. Stop, give the command, “Come!” while motioning with your arm bringing it to your chest - like you would with a person. If doggie breaks Stay, just return your pup to the Sit/Stay and try again.
Now here’s the hard part - when your dog comes to you, all excited and wiggly, it’s almost a given doggie will try to jump up on you. Be prepared with “Off!” and your blocking knee, and command, “Sit!” When good doggie sits like a genius, lavish praise - and don’t forget that treat!
When doggie gets it, and comes to you on command, you can try it without the leash within an enclosure. Don’t attempt this in the open until you are 110% sure doggie will listen to you.
LEAVE IT!
This is another biggie, especially with puppies. Dogs want to explore, taste and eat a variety of no-no’s.
As you approach something on a walk you know your dog will find irresistible, as the dog begins move towards it command, “Leave it!” simultaneously giving a firm tug on the leash away from it. When your dog passes it by follow through with, “Good leave it!”
If your dog already has the object in his or her mouth, as you remove the object command “Leave it!” Always follow through with “Good leave it!”
You will use these 2 words often. When training your dog to Heel or Come, you will use “Leave it” to stop the dog from chasing cats, squirrels, birds, etc., and anything that poses distraction to you and safety.
Especially with puppies, after your good dog leaves it, substitute a toy or something they are allowed to chew on or play with, and say, “Good chew!”
QUIET!
Dogs bark, and some barking should be allowed, but be a considerate pet owner, and don’t allow your dog to bark excessively. Dogs have many different barks for different things happening in doggie land. Listen, and you will soon learn what’s happening by listening to your dog’s bark, and therefore learn how to counteract and stop it.
There are happy barks when a friend is spotted, bored repetitive barks, frustrated at the squirrel in the tree barks, angry barks at that darned kid on the scooter, and warning barks when strangers approach the house. Discover what doggie is trying to tell you, and take it from there.
Some barks should be welcomed, like the stranger bark, and deserve praise like, “Good protect!” For other annoying barks, like boredom barks or squirrel in the tree barks use the command, “Quiet!” Follow through with something fun to distract your dog like a favorite toy, toss a ball to chase, or bring your dog inside to play for a while. If doggie is stubborn, you can try a squirt bottle with water after your command is ignored.
DIGGING:
Digging is not a bad thing. “What, are you nuts!” you say - “Just look at my flower beds!” Ok, ok, it’s good and bad - it’s natural for dogs, some breeds more than others. You need to reach a compromise with your dog. Set aside a special part of the yard where it’s ok for doggie to dig, and teach that this is the only place where this activity is ok. You might as well do this, because doggie is going to dig anyway!
Teach this by catching you dog in the act, commanding, “Bad dig!” Then follow through by taking your dog to the good dig area and praising, “Good dig!” as you dig a small hole any bury a treat as doggie watches you. When doggie digs it up praise again with “Good dig!” Bury several treats in the good area, and praise your little genius as each is dug up and enjoyed.
FENCE JUMPING:
This is a very serious problem, so have your dog micro chipped right away. Dogs run away for 2 main reasons, boredom and the desire to find a mate. Make sure you have you dog spayed or neutered to help keep your dog at home. Remove objects near the fence that dogs can use to get over it.
If your dog is still trying to get out, there are invisible fences and collars that help, but training is what’s needed. Make the fence a scary place for your dog to go near. This can be done by using those very loud air horns. Hide unseen and wait for your dog to get near the spot where the dog is jumping, then blast that horn. Your dog will soon associate the fence with this scary loud noise.
If the problem persists, seek professional help from a dog trainer. You can contact United Animal Friends for help as well.
HITTING THE ROAD:
Pick up truck beds and dogs don’t mix. Dogs deserve to enjoy that car ride in the safety of the interior. A half-cracked window for a head to poke through is way more fun. So many dogs die on our roads each year from falling out of trucks - it’s just plain stupid.
DON’T GIVE UP!
Some dogs are easier to train than others for sure, but don’t give up! Keep at it, be consistent and have the family all using the same words and techniques, and it will happen.
A bit of time and effort at the beginning will reward you with years of lovely doggie manners and a pet that’s a joy to be around. I promise you, it will be well worth it!
Coming Home:
Shop till you drop! Buy your new friend all the essentials to feel welcome. You’ll need:
*Good quality pet food. Read the labels, and look for the first ingredients to be meat - not meat meal or meat by-products. You may want dry as well as canned.
*Treats and chew toys. Be careful of chews, like bones and rawhide, that pose choking hazards. Always supervise giving these treats. Kong bones are great, and fill the hole with a treat, cheese or peanut butter, and your pup will thank you for it!
*Toys - be careful of parts, such as eyes and noses, and squeakers inside that can be chewed and swallowed.
*Water and food dishes.
*A soft bed big enough to stretch out on.
*A proper fitting collar. You should be able to easily fit 4 fingers under the collar. There’s no need for chain choke collars or prong collars. If your dog has issues that you feel warrant one of these, seek professional training advice instead.
*An I.D. tag on the collar with the dog’s name, your home phone and cell phone numbers. The word REWARD on the tag helps to encourage your dog’s return.
*A microchip implanted under the skin is always a great way to assure your dog is returned to you. Collars come off, along with the I.D. tag; but microchips are forever.
*An Easy Walk Harness is wonderful on walks, and especially great for dogs that pull on leashes. Proper and snug fit is important.
*A leash that’s comfortable to hold, and just long enough to allow your dog some wiggle room to sniff and explore.
*Paper towels and poopie bags. You’ll want to buy stock in these companies!
*An enzyme solution that neutralizes urine, feces, odor and bio-matter. These are fantastic, and will keep your carpet happy - you too.
*Unscented puppy or dog shampoo keeps your new pal clean and fresh as a daisy.
Before your new friend arrives, you’ll need to “dog proof” your home for safety. Walk your yard fencing looking for gaps and holes your friend can escape through, and permanently repair them. Remove anything that can pose a hazard to your pet. These include poisonous products, especially antifreeze, and slug bait, and any household products that can be ingested. Candy dishes too - chocolate Hershey Kisses are a big no-no for dogs. How unfair! Remove items that can pose choking or poison hazards from floors and low shelving that the dog can reach.
Dogs and dogs:
If you already have a dog at home, until you know how all pets will interact, pick up anything that could potentially cause a squabble.These items can be toys, food, chews, a favorite bed, even a favorite leash. Give these back at your discretion, and under supervision. Introduce dogs on neutral ground outside of the home. Recruit a dog saavy friend to help you, and give your dog to the friend. You handle the new arrival. Take a deep breath, get into a calm assertive state of mind, because your dog will sense any fear you show and will take it as a sign of danger.
Don’t allow the dogs to get face to face or touch, but rather all 4 of you walk down the street together - folks inside dogs outside. Let them eyeball each other as you walk. They’ll be distracted by the smells and sights along the way, and less focused on each other. Monitor body language for signs of aggression - showing teeth, growling, rigid and tense posturing, trying to get over to the other dog - too focused.
If all seems friendly and nice, then slacken the leashes and allow the dogs to sniff and greet each other. Tight leashes convey fear and can cause a fight. Be calm, keep the leashes untangled, and be ready to pull them apart if a fight starts up. Do not allow one dog to mount another or try to place a leg or paw on the other’s back. This is showing dominance, and can lead to a fight. Once they have met and seem to get along, then you can proceed into the house together. Keep the leashes on for a while, in the yard too. Keep it under control.
Baby gates are great for keeping dogs apart, yet letting them sniff and get acquainted slowly. Slowly, and baby steps, are the keys to successful meet and greets. Never leave your pets alone unsupervised until you are completely sure that they are all pals and there is no danger of a fight breaking out.
If the unmentional happens, and a fight breaks out, the best way to break it up is first by calling for help, then start by kicking the dogs apart at the neck and face - don’t ever put hands too near or on the dogs. You can use a hose on full blast, or shove a trash can lid between their faces, or any object handy. Once apart, use your body, and the object, to direct the aggressor away. The dog will be excited, and may still bite you if handled.
Kids and dogs:
Small children need to understand the difference between stuffed animals and live ones. Don’t leave small children and dogs together unsupervised until you know your dog is ok around little kids. Teach your kids how to interact with dogs. Instruct the child to put a hand out and allow the dog to come to the child. Don’t look the dog directly in the eye, but off to the side. Speak softly and quietly, no fast movements, and if petting - pet the chest below the head and never come from above. Smile with a closed mouth, as showing teeth means something completely different in doggie land.
Teach them not to go near the food bowl when doggie is eating. Teach them not to take a toy out of doggie’s mouth, not to pinch, pull ears and tails, and not to tease dogs or throw things at him or her. Help them to understand that sudden fast movements, jumping, running and squealing can startle and frighten a dog, and cause a dog to bite. Also waking a dog suddenly from a nap, or rushing at dog to hug or kiss is a no-no. Many dogs will interpret a hug as a dominance, so chest petting is the way to go. Some dog’s couldn’t care less, but others will bite a child if frightened or pushed too far. Until you know for sure, and until your dog knows your children are not a threat, safety always comes first.
Cats and dogs:
The cartoons we grew up with were wrong. Cats and dogs can become best buds. When introducing them, always keep your dog on a leash and allow the cat freedom to approach or run. Always have an escape route for kitty. If your dog is fixated on kitty and refuses to be distracted, that’s bad - a strong prey drive, and kitty is in danger. If your dog is appearing curious, and will break focus on kitty with treats or other activity - that’s good. They’ll likely become pals.
Until you’re comfortable with them in the same room, don’t let them interact freely and unsupervised. Have a squirt bottle handy just in case doggie gets too enthusiastic, and correct unwanted behavior with the command, “Leave it!” (explained in detail later).
There is no such thing as a perfect dog! Your new friend won’t understand what’s expected until you teach him or her. Everyone in the family should use the same word for the behavior, prefaced by “Good” or “Bad.” (Example “Bad chew!” or “Good chew!”) Simply shouting “No!” or “Bad!“ won’t convey what doggy has done to displease you. You might as well be howling at the moon!
Consistancy and word repetition is the key to training, followed by positive reinforcement through praise and treats. Use a low firm, serious voice for the correction, and a happy, higher pitched voice for the praise. Hitting, hollering and punishing will only create more problems, and will get you absolutely nowhere, fast.
Basic Obedience Training makes for happy pets and happy families. A local class, or even applying lessons from a good book, is time well spent that will last a lifetime. Oh, and walking around morning until night with little yummy treats in your pocket will definitely drive your daily trainings home!
POTTY TRAINING:
Take your dog out to go potty often, and to the same location each time. Say, “Good potty!” and give a treat. If doggie has an accident in the house, no big deal…just say, “Bad potty!” and take doggy out to the good potty place and reinforce it with “Good potty!” Taking some urine on a paper towel, or feces outside to the potty area will also help drive your message home.
It’s always best to catch doggie in the act. Take the dog immediately outside and praise.
Dogs don’t like to mess where they sleep. Don’t give your new dog the run of the house, but keep your new friend in a confined area when you are not together. Using baby gates to block off the kitchen, or a den without carpet is great. Set up the bed, toys and water, and make it a positive happy place - not like punishment. Don’t make a fuss before you walk away or when returning - that just creates anxiety. Keep it matter of fact, and only give praise and greetings once the dog is calm. Let the dog out to go potty immediately after returning.
CRATES:
A large roomy crate can also serve this purpose. BUT…a crate is a training aid, and not a substitute for training. The crate should be roomy and allow the dog to lie down and stretch out comfortably. There should be blankets or a pad, and room for a small water bowl and some safe toys.
Make the crate a happy place. Never use it for punishment. Start teaching doggie to go inside by tossing a few treats to the back while saying, “Good crate!” Keep the door open, allowing for a quick exit. Once doggy is comfortable being inside, then close the door for a minute or so before opening it saying “Good crate!” Prolong the door closed times in baby steps.
The next step is to close doggie inside, say nothing, then leave the room for a minute or so. Upon returning and opening it, say “Good crate!” Still, don’t make a big fuss, just give the praise words and go out for potty. Prolong the periods you leave the room in baby steps as well.
When you are getting ready to leave, place some favorite “special” chew toys, like a Kong Bone with frozen peanut butter inside of it, into the crate. Having a special treat makes your departure so much better!
Never make a fuss before leaving the house, “I’ll be home soon my precious. I’ll miss you sooooo much pookey face!” Or when returning, same thing. Just go and return. Sad partings and grand reunions cause separation anxiety. Put on your coat and shoes, and play with your keys at times when you are not leaving. Dogs are really good at reading signs, and this will also help alleviate separation anxiety.
GO TO YOUR PLACE!
You can add to crate training or going to a special room by teaching “Go to your place!” When a visitor’s coming who’s afraid of dogs, or a workman arrives, you can stay in control by commanding your dog to go into the room/crate with “Go to your place!” Say this in a firm but non-scolding voice, then use a treat to get your dog to follow you to the room/crate. Once inside, praise “Good go to your place!” and give a treat. You can also secretly leave a surprise treat in the room/crate so when the dog arrives, there will be a magical treat waiting. Your dog will learn that hearing this command often means there’s a treat waiting at the place.
CHEWING:
Dogs chew, especially puppies who are teething. The trick is to teach them what’s ok to chew…and that dad’s expensive golf shoes are a huge no-no!
This is done much the same as potty training, by saying, “Bad Chew!” Then, the key is to immediately substitute what’s ok to chew, such as a Kong Bone or toy, and finish by praising with, “Good chew!” and a pat or two. Rawhide bones, real bones, and similar chews pose choking hazards, so if giving these, never leave doggie unsupervised. Knowing the doggie Heimlick Maneuver is a good thing too.
For dangerous chewing, such as electrical chords, or really annoying chewing such as the corner of dad’s favorite TV chair, Bitter Apple works miracles. It’s a clear spray carried at your favorite pet store, and it tastes just awful. I know, I tried it once! Spray some over favorite no-no areas to keep doggie far away from there. A little Tabasco Sauce works well too.
WALKING WELL ON LEAD:
It’s no fun to walk doggie around the block when you’re being dragged along behind a panting locomotive!
The best solution is an Easy Walk Harness. Choke collars and chains will teach doggie nothing. Make sure that the Easy Walk Harness is properly fitted, and is snug but not tight. A collar must also fit securely so that your dog can not back out of it.
Begin with doggie on your left side, and held closely at about 15 inches. If you can get doggie to sit by pushing down on the hind quarters and saying “Sit!” all the better. Start off on your left foot and give the command, “Heel!” while gently giving one inward tug on the leash bringing doggie back in to you. If doggie tries to charge ahead pull back on the leash with a firm jerk and another “Heel!” correction. If doggie is determined to charge ahead, simply break his/her train of thought by turning and walking in the opposite direction. This will throw doggie off, and as you turn repeat “Heel!” and jerk the leash to keep doggie at your side.
Just keep repeating this turning and walking in the opposite direction until doggie gets tired of it all and starts to understand that pulling ahead only means going back to square one. When doggie is finally walking nicely, don’t forget the praise and reward with “Good Heel!” and a treat.
If your pup or dog has never been on a leash before, they often sit or lie down, and refuse to budge. Never drag your dog, but rather coax your dog to come using treats. Once they are up and moving forward, keep the momentum going, and continue with the above method and praise.
SIT:
Sit and liver training treats go together like Peanut Butter and Jelly. While holding a treat, move it over your dog’s nose and back over the head, and give the command to “Sit!” When doggie finally does it, follow through with, “Good Sit!” and a treat. Dogs learn this one really fast.
This is a true joy when you have visitors coming into your house. Place your dog in the Sit/Stay away from the front door, and what a pleasure to answer the door without dogs barking, spinning, and jumping up on everyone. Give yourself a pat on the back!
DOWN:
From a sitting position, hold a treat on the floor in front of the dog and slide it towards you and away from the dog. Give the command, “Down!” Repeat movement with the treat until your dog lies down. When doggie does it, follow through with, “Good Down!” and give that good doggie lots of praise, and of course - that yummy treat!
STAY:
Teaching you dog to Stay is fun and rewarding. Teach this in a safe location, as you will be letting go of the leash.
Place your dog in a Sit while standing in front of your dog. Give the command, “Stay!” while simultaneously placing your right hand, palm facing your dog, just a few inches from the muzzle. Wait a few seconds. Give praise and a treat. Increase this waiting period gradually. As the dog gets the idea, gently drop the leash, and walk slowly in a clockwise direction around your dog, and end up back facing him or her once again. If at any time the dog breaks Stay, grab the leash, return your dog to the Sit, and begin again.
When you are able to complete the circle around your dog and return facing your dog while still in Sit, now it’s time to praise such a good doggie with “Good Stay!” and several yummy liver treats and pats.
Stay is also vital when traveling in the car. Before opening your car door, command the dog to “Stay!” Also, never walk away and leave your car window open enough for your dog to jump out, and never leave your dog in the car on a hot day!
Sit/Stay and Down/Stay: Combine them and mix it up for your pooch - they love a good challenge!
JUMPING UP ON FOLKS:
This is a no-no that needs to be nipped in the bud. When your dog jumps up on you put your knee up to block, or just simply turn your back to your dog. The command word for this correction is “Off!”…not to be confused with “Down!” This is a great time to follow through with “Good Off!,” then throw in “Sit!” and of course, that liver treat. Instruct visitors to do the same, Off/Sit, when doggie jumps up on them.
COME:
Coming when called is vital to any dog’s safety. Stuff happens. Collars break, gates are accidentally left open, dogs dash out the door. Training your dog to come on command is wonderful. Until your dog is trained to listen, never let him or her off leash when not safe within a fence. When your dog is heading your way, say, “Come!” Give a treat and praise when he arrives. After he gets used to the concept, try doing it when not already moving in your direction.
For this training you’ll need a long Flexi Leash or a 15’ length of rope. Put your dog in the Sit/Stay and slowly back away facing the dog while holding onto the leash. Stop, give the command, “Come!” while motioning with your arm bringing it to your chest - like you would with a person. If doggie breaks Stay, just return your pup to the Sit/Stay and try again.
Now here’s the hard part - when your dog comes to you, all excited and wiggly, it’s almost a given doggie will try to jump up on you. Be prepared with “Off!” and your blocking knee, and command, “Sit!” When good doggie sits like a genius, lavish praise - and don’t forget that treat!
When doggie gets it, and comes to you on command, you can try it without the leash within an enclosure. Don’t attempt this in the open until you are 110% sure doggie will listen to you.
LEAVE IT!
This is another biggie, especially with puppies. Dogs want to explore, taste and eat a variety of no-no’s.
As you approach something on a walk you know your dog will find irresistible, as the dog begins move towards it command, “Leave it!” simultaneously giving a firm tug on the leash away from it. When your dog passes it by follow through with, “Good leave it!”
If your dog already has the object in his or her mouth, as you remove the object command “Leave it!” Always follow through with “Good leave it!”
You will use these 2 words often. When training your dog to Heel or Come, you will use “Leave it” to stop the dog from chasing cats, squirrels, birds, etc., and anything that poses distraction to you and safety.
Especially with puppies, after your good dog leaves it, substitute a toy or something they are allowed to chew on or play with, and say, “Good chew!”
QUIET!
Dogs bark, and some barking should be allowed, but be a considerate pet owner, and don’t allow your dog to bark excessively. Dogs have many different barks for different things happening in doggie land. Listen, and you will soon learn what’s happening by listening to your dog’s bark, and therefore learn how to counteract and stop it.
There are happy barks when a friend is spotted, bored repetitive barks, frustrated at the squirrel in the tree barks, angry barks at that darned kid on the scooter, and warning barks when strangers approach the house. Discover what doggie is trying to tell you, and take it from there.
Some barks should be welcomed, like the stranger bark, and deserve praise like, “Good protect!” For other annoying barks, like boredom barks or squirrel in the tree barks use the command, “Quiet!” Follow through with something fun to distract your dog like a favorite toy, toss a ball to chase, or bring your dog inside to play for a while. If doggie is stubborn, you can try a squirt bottle with water after your command is ignored.
DIGGING:
Digging is not a bad thing. “What, are you nuts!” you say - “Just look at my flower beds!” Ok, ok, it’s good and bad - it’s natural for dogs, some breeds more than others. You need to reach a compromise with your dog. Set aside a special part of the yard where it’s ok for doggie to dig, and teach that this is the only place where this activity is ok. You might as well do this, because doggie is going to dig anyway!
Teach this by catching you dog in the act, commanding, “Bad dig!” Then follow through by taking your dog to the good dig area and praising, “Good dig!” as you dig a small hole any bury a treat as doggie watches you. When doggie digs it up praise again with “Good dig!” Bury several treats in the good area, and praise your little genius as each is dug up and enjoyed.
FENCE JUMPING:
This is a very serious problem, so have your dog micro chipped right away. Dogs run away for 2 main reasons, boredom and the desire to find a mate. Make sure you have you dog spayed or neutered to help keep your dog at home. Remove objects near the fence that dogs can use to get over it.
If your dog is still trying to get out, there are invisible fences and collars that help, but training is what’s needed. Make the fence a scary place for your dog to go near. This can be done by using those very loud air horns. Hide unseen and wait for your dog to get near the spot where the dog is jumping, then blast that horn. Your dog will soon associate the fence with this scary loud noise.
If the problem persists, seek professional help from a dog trainer. You can contact United Animal Friends for help as well.
HITTING THE ROAD:
Pick up truck beds and dogs don’t mix. Dogs deserve to enjoy that car ride in the safety of the interior. A half-cracked window for a head to poke through is way more fun. So many dogs die on our roads each year from falling out of trucks - it’s just plain stupid.
DON’T GIVE UP!
Some dogs are easier to train than others for sure, but don’t give up! Keep at it, be consistent and have the family all using the same words and techniques, and it will happen.
A bit of time and effort at the beginning will reward you with years of lovely doggie manners and a pet that’s a joy to be around. I promise you, it will be well worth it!
DOG ADOPTION FOLDER ON-LINE
Congratulations on Your Adoption! Now what???
Congratulations on Your Adoption! Now what???
